Here's a thought experiment: Think of five great-value wines you know and love. (If you can't name five, you must be frittering away too much time on boring grape-free pursuits, such as exercise or staying late at the office.) Now, consider where those favourite bargains come from? It's a revealing exercise.
Southern Italy and southern France might rank prominently (I covered a couple of such selections from those destinations in a "house wine" column in November). If there's nothing from the southern hemisphere on your list, I'd be surprised. Chile, Argentina, Australia and South Africa are the go-to destinations for many consumers. I could, in fact, fill several budget-wine columns with options from Chile alone. If, on the other hand, Napa Valley figures prominently on your weeknight dining table with takeout pizza, I suspect that you, too, have been staying too late at the office, raking in sacks of cash. Napa "values" tend to be well above most people's snack bracket.
In response to a solicitation I made in last month's bargain column, readers helpfully cited their favourite examples from Chile, Australia, Portugal and southern Italy. (Four examples: 35 South Organic Cabernet Merlot from Chile, at $12.95 in Ontario; McWilliams Shiraz Cabernet from Australia, at $9.95; Delaforce Tinto Douro from Portugal, at $13.20; and Montalto Nero d'Avola Cabernet Sauvignon from Sicily, at $8.95.) Even northern France made the cut, though in one case with a $22 crémant bubbly that I think most readers would consider too pricey.
Here's the second instalment of the pre-holiday house-wine cage match, consisting of selections from my recent tastings.
Pessoa do Vinha Reserva Touriga Nacional Douro 2012 (Portugal)
SCORE: 89 PRICE: $12.55
Go, Portugal! And I'm not talking about soccer. This smooth, full red from the Douro region best known for port combines ripe blackberry, currant, plum, chocolate and vanilla flavours with hints of cigar leaf and spice on a supple frame. Try it with rich red meats. Available in Ontario.
Santa Rita Chardonnay Reserva 2012 (Chile)
SCORE: 89 PRICE: $13.95
To land a much better deal in full-bodied chardonnay would likely involve theft (or at least a trip to a U.S. discount liquor store and a duty-free smuggle back to Canada). Ample and buttery yet balanced with zippy acidity, it delivers a medley of tropical fruit, chiefly grilled pineapple, along with grapefruit, roasted nuts and vanilla. Various prices in Alta., $16.99 in N.S. (currently on sale for $14.99).
Montes Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Chile)
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $12.95
Lots happening here for the money. Montes's full-bodied reserva 2013 mixes crowd-pleasing blackberry, chocolate and currant notes with vanilla, caramel, smoky tobacco and a hint of mint. A good red for steak or beef roasts. $15.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $17.99 in Saskatchewan, $14.99 in New Brunswick, $15 in Newfoundland.
Torres Sangre de Toro Garnacha 2013 (Spain)
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $12.95
The marketing icon endures: a little plastic bull dangling from the bottle's neck, emblematic of the wine's name, "bull's blood." And the pioneering Spanish producer Torres, which adopted modern temperature-controlled steel fermenting vats in the 1960s in a departure from the rustic tools of the past, delivers the goods here. Medium-full-bodied, the wine is supple and redolent of spiced cherry with a thyme-like herbal top note, finishing juicy and round. A versatile red, this matches particularly well with roast poultry. $15.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $14.98 in Saskatchewan, $13.27 in Manitoba, $13.65 in Quebec, $15.49 in New Brunswick.
Fetzer Sundial Chardonnay 2013 (California)
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $11.95
Smooth, round and almost sweet, Fetzer's Sundial 2013 hits the mark where fans of crowd-pleasing, fruit-driven chardonnay are concerned. Peach and tropical fruit flavours are lavished with the right amount of vanilla and butter. Mid-weight fish, simply prepared chicken dishes or squash soups would make fine pairings. $13.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $14.99 in Nova Scotia.
Silver Bay Cellars Riesling Gewurztraminer 2013 (Ontario)
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $13.95
A glance at the smart package might suggest Australia or South Africa. (The azure accents put me in mind of the popular Cape brand The Beachhouse, with its blue-starfish image.) Who wouldn't want to dip toes into Silver Bay? Well, not me in December. We're firmly in the northern hemisphere here, specifically between Port Colborne, Ont., and the snow capital of the Lower 48, Buffalo. Yes, that Silver Bay, on Lake Erie's north shore. It's where, according to the slick marketing sheet, "vineyard meets the beach." The crisp white is brought to you by the Speck brothers, the three wise men behind Niagara's Henry of Pelham winery. Well done, gentlemen. Sweet peach and apricot flavours are underscored by a touch of sweetness, balanced admirably by fresh acidity. Lake trout, preferably not from Buffalo, would be nice with this. Available direct through www.silverbaycellars.ca.
Santa Rita 120 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Chile)
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $9.95
Medium-full-bodied, juicy and lively, the entry-level 120 cabernet from big brand Santa Rita strikes an attractive balance of fruit and savoury characters, leading with berries and following with vanilla, spices and earth. It would be fine for many lamb and beef dishes. $10.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $12.99 in Saskatchewan, $12.99 in New Brunswick, $12.99 in Nova Scotia, $13.95 in PEI .
Brazos de Los Andes White Blend 2013 (Argentina)
SCORE: 87 PRICE: $13.90
Crisp and bright, with citrus in the starring role, Brazos white comes from one of Argentina's big value producers, Zuccardi, perhaps best known for the successful Fuzion line. Here we've got an uncommon blend of fleshy chardonnay, light pinot grigio and Argentina's aromatic signature white grape, torrontes. A mere three months in French barrels lends weight and a whisper of toasty oak to this otherwise fruity-herbal sipper. This is both appropriate as an aperitif or for most fish and poultry dishes.