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How would you describe a person willing to spend $250 on a bottle of wine? "Stupidly rich" might be an accurate answer in most cases. But I suspect the sanest among you would generally be more inclined simply to go with "stupid." I've been there (not the "rich" part), though rarely. And while I might agree that $250 would be better spent on, say, a year's worth of water or beer, the part that makes me feel most foolish is that I blew that crazy dough on wines other than the first one listed below.

Collectors of super-luxury Bordeaux will know the name Pontet-Canet. It ranks among the region's elite reds, one of 58 "classified growths" cited in the famous hierarchy set out in 1855 (at the request of Napoleon III) listing the region's priciest liquids. Yet that classification, in which Pontet-Canet squeaked in on the fifth and bottom tier, is sorely outdated and hardly tells the story of this particular wine.

It's a stunner from the hallowed 2010 growing season, a blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the league of such vaunted first growths as Mouton, Lafite and Latour. Powerful, dense and succulent, it would likely impress any wine lover. It's Vladimir Horowitz at the piano, Jimmy Page on guitar, Dr. Dre at the mic. The great U.S. critic Robert Parker, whose numerical scores are wine-geek gospel, awarded it a perfect 100 points. To taste it, he wrote, is a "privilege."

It marks the culmination of a long and sometimes troubled history for Pontet-Canet. The property had already been in decline in 1855, when it was simply known as Canet, and by the early 1970s the château had sunk low enough, figuratively speaking, to become embroiled in a fraud scandal. Then-owners the Cruse family had taken to passing off cheap table wine at classified-growth prices by altering records. Lionel Cruse's cover-up and the resulting controversy pushed him to sell the property to Cognac merchant Guy Tesseron in 1975. Since then, quality has soared, notably under Guy's son, Alfred Tesseron, who took over in the mid-1990s.

The younger Tesseron, who also owns the excellent fourth growth Château Lafon-Rochet, adopted organic farming practices, complete with horses that shuffle through the vineyard to gently turn soil with their hooves (tractors tend to compact and degrade the dirt). He also hired famed French consultant Michel Rolland to work his magic.

If Pontet-Canet's 2010 seems outrageously expensive, consider it in the context of its famed Bordeaux neighbour, Château Mouton Rothschild, at about $700. Parker's score for Mouton's 2010 was "98-plus." My math tells me that a fool and his money would be better off with Pontet-Canet.

Château Pontet-Canet 2010 (France)

SCORE: 98 PRICE: $249.85

The nose-bleed price is enough to give most consumers pause, but this is glory juice. Pontet-Canet, an organic estate in the Pauillac commune within field-goal range of Château Mouton Rothschild, captured the essence of the great 2010 vintage. Ripe with concentrated blackcurrant-like fruit and notes of dark chocolate, vanilla and classic Pauillac minerality, it is simultaneously succulent and powerful, with a truckload of chewy-sticky tannins that bode well for long-term cellaring. Lay it down for 30 years if you possess the patience and expect to be in fit form to enjoy a roast-beef dinner in 2044. $312.50 in Manitoba, $237 in Quebec.

Billaud-Simon Montée de Tonnerre Chablis 1er Cru 2009 (France)

SCORE: 94 PRICE: $47.95

Sublime chardonnay, this elegant and complex white glides along with notes of apricot, cooked apple and pastry dough, kept lively by fresh acidity and a pleasantly tangy oxidative quality owing to its five years of evolution. Drinking beautifully now, it should continue to improve for five years. It would be glorious with fish pie, chicken scallopini with mushrooms, poached salmon with mayonnaise or rabbit terrine with mustard. Available in Ontario.

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2011 (Australia)

SCORE: 93 PRICE: $44.95

A fabulous blend of almost equal parts cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, Penfold's 2011 Bin 389 is smartly crafted, showing concentrated cherry-cassis fruit set against firm, chewy-dry tannins, carried to a long spicy finish. Grilled lamb or beef would be splendid, though it will evolve handsomely for at least 15 years. $69.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $69.99 in Manitoba, $44.79 in Nova Scotia.

Salomon Undhof Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner 2012 (Austria)

SCORE: 93 PRICE: $21.95

A panoply of subtle flavours in this mid-weight yet substantial Austrian white.

Silky and very dry, it suggests orchard fruit (including a pleasant note of slightly bruised apple), dried grain, flint and white pepper. Great gruner. Available in Ontario.

Chapoutier Petite Ruche Crozes-Hermitage 2012 (France)

SCORE: 91 PRICE: $24.95

Here's a red that instantly telegraphs its grape and origin, namely syrah from the northern Rhône Valley. Medium-full-bodied, it sports a polished texture and supple tannins, with juicy dark fruit and classic Crozes-Hermitage notes of smoky game, white pepper and leather. This is marvellous with roast lamb. Available in Ontario.

Stefano Farina Le Brume Langhe Rosso 2009 (Italy)

SCORE: 91 PRICE: $16.95

A red blend of crisp barbera with firm, tannic nebbiolo (of Barolo fame), this gem displays good concentration, with dried-cherry fruit, a wonderfully Piedmontese note of shoe polish, elegant tannins and excellent structure. It's a bargain for something that approaches the quality of, and flavours in, decent Barolo. Available in Ontario.

Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Chile)

SCORE: 90 PRICE: $17.95

Dry as a cat's tongue, this is expressive, sunny cabernet with Old World structure and elegance. Brimming with cassis, it comes with classic Chilean savouriness in the form of mint, cedar and tobacco. It's a perfect red for juicy steak. $22.99 in B.C., $23.86 in Manitoba, $24.99 in New Brunswick, $24.98 in Newfoundland.

Château Le Grand Verdus 2010 (France)

SCORE: 90 PRICE: $15.95

Well, what have we here: good quality red Bordeaux at a moderate price? You bet. Full-bodied, ripe and polished, Grand Verdus offers up juicy berry fruit backed by integrated tannins, food-friendly acidity and a whisper of mineral. It's great for steak. Various prices in Alberta.

Zinfatuation Zinfandel 2012 (California)

SCORE: 89 PRICE: $16.95

Puns on the word zinfandel are a big thing in California (Cardinal Zin, 7 Deadly Zins). I'd suggest looking beyond the potential cringe-factor here. It's made by Trinchero, better known for the bargain Sutter Home brand. Full-bodied and luscious, it comes across with velvety plum, chocolate and berries and a hint of raisin. Jammy yet balanced with acidity and spice, it would be a fine match for saucy-spicy red meats or a cheese course. $16.99 in B.C., $18.99 in Manitoba.

Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2012 (Italy)

SCORE: 89 PRICE: $17.95

Medium-bodied, juicy and succulent, this red is built around a cherry-like core, with supple tannins and lively acidity. Try is with saucy meats and cheeses. $17.85 in Quebec, $19.79 in New Brunswick, $17.97 in Newfoundland.

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