Chicken in coconut milk is not a spicy dish, but it has layers of flavour.Danielle Matar/The Globe and Mail
To my taste, Malaysian food is one of the most flavourful cuisines in the world. Malaysia is sometimes referred to as the crossroads of Asia and its cuisine reflects this. It is a mélange of styles, fused over the years with Indian, Chinese and Thai ingredients and cooking methods. Everything is spice-rubbed, and although the dishes are not necessarily hot, they are always full-flavoured.
For this menu, I consulted a friend, Bruce Williamson, a retired teacher who spends part of the year in Borneo volunteering to help teachers of English in Malaysian primary schools. Over many years, he's acquired some wonderful authentic Malay recipes that will dazzle your palate. Serve with a spicy sambal side dish or chili sauce.
Besengek Daging– Beef in Assorted Spices
This fragrant, spicy dish reheats wonderfully. Freeze remaining coconut milk for another use. Tamarind can be bought in many different forms. I prefer the tamarind concentrate found in Asian stores. Kemiri (also called candlenuts) are the nuts used in Malaysia; Brazil or macadamia nuts make a fine substitute. Although the recipe calls for belachan (shrimp paste) I found anchovy paste to be a good alternative. Serve with rice and sambal.
This dish is not spicy, but it has layers of flavour. Chicken thighs or legs are best here; breasts tend to dry out.
Wine pairing
Although wine is not the traditional beverage of choice in Malaysia, one can take a cue from the classic non-alcoholic drinks of the region. Aromatic teas and such ingredients as rose syrup figure prominently, and they stand up well to the ambrosial, heady spicing in both dishes here. Be not afraid of wines with plenty of fruity, spicy punch.
For the fragrant beef, consider a richly plummy Australian shiraz (heck, Australia is just a pleasant cruise across the Java Sea). The red's syrupy density, suggestive sweetness and peppery overtone also help offset the sambal sauce's chili heat. Alternatively, a slightly chilled, crisp, light Beaujolais might be equally appealing, if also a very different experience.
The chicken dish, with its sweetly cooked onion base, is more suited to luscious, spicy white gewuerztraminer, the wine's classic gingery note resonating with the actual ginger in the dish. There's also usually a strong suggestion of rose petal in the wine's aroma, a treat for the nose as much as the palate – just like Malaysian cuisine in general. - Beppi Crosariol
Lucy Waverman