I used to taste more wines from Washington State, or should I say more from producers in Washington apart from Château Ste Michelle, which produces an extensive range of labels for that flagship brand, as well as the 14 Hands and Columbia Crest brands.
Twenty years ago, wine lovers were able to enjoy a range of reds and whites from Washington State, which is the second-largest wine producer in the United States. Top producers, such as Hedges Family Estate, L’Ecole No. 41, Leonetti, Long Shadows and Quilceda Creek, were often featured on liquor store shelves.
Over time, the shelves featured fewer of those boutique labels, which continue to enjoy strong sales and critical acclaim in the U.S., and more supply from Château Ste Michelle, especially its more affordably priced bottles. The winery’s proliferation across Canada wasn’t surprising given the scope of its production. Château Ste Michelle worked with more than half of the vineyards producing wine grapes in Washington State. (The annual production of 90 per cent of the state’s wineries is less than 5,000 cases a year, with a focus on making wines that retail for US$25 and above.)
In October, 2021, Château Ste Michelle was acquired by Sycamore Partners, a private equity firm specializing in consumer, retail and distribution investments. The company’s focus is on premium production moving forward. Last year, it announced plans to cut back its grape supply by 40 per cent over the next five years, which industry sources say equates to two million cases of wine.
Canada will continue to be a strong market for Ste Michelle wines, notably its popular cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, but other Washington State vintners are making sales calls, too. DeLille Cellars recently launched a new brand, Métier, which includes a cabernet and red wine blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot that are available in parts of Canada. The Métier Red Blend 2021, which is released this week at LCBO Vintages outlets, is one of this week’s recommendations of wines to buy now.
DeLille Métier Red Blend 2021 (United States), $29.95
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Métier is a new brand from one of Washington State’s top producers, DeLille Cellars. The Red Blend is a rich and rewarding wine, with a mix of ripe dark fruit flavours and peppery spice, smoke and earthy accents. A full-bodied red with impressive structure, finesse and length, decant before serving for best enjoyment. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Clos de los Siete 2019 (Argentina), $25.95
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From Michel Rolland’s project in Mendoza’s Uco Valley, this malbec-based blend is expressive and enjoyable. The core of dark fruit flavours is ripe and fresh, with complementary cedar, savoury and floral notes. There’s a polish to the presentation that makes this ready to drink, but past vintages have shown this is a red wine with potential to mature gracefully. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario and Quebec (2020 vintage), $29.99 in British Columbia ($24.99 until March 2), various prices in Alberta, $26.09 in Manitoba, $36.94 in Newfoundland.
Domane Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Gruner Veltliner 2022 (Austria), $19.95
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There’s a freshness and intensity to well-made white wines produced with the gruner veltliner grapes like this compelling one. The vibrant character is really appealing when enjoyed upon release. After cellaring, an older example shows satisfying richness and complexity. A dry and crisp white wine that manages to be easy to appreciate as well as serious, this shows pleasing peppery, stony and citrus flavours that are focused and pure. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Elena Walch Pinot Grigio 2022 (Italy), $26.95
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The product of a hot and dry growing season in 2022, this pinot grigio from Alto Adige shows nice balance between riper peach and yellow apple flavours with refreshing citrusy character. The harmonious and flavourful style make this a great expression of the region and grape variety. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $34.54 in Nova Scotia.
Joel Gott 815 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (United States), $25.95
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Made in the Gott house style, this is a ripe and fruity style of California cabernet that’s crowd-pleasing in nature without being over the top (four grams per litre residual sweetness and 13.9 per cent alcohol). The blend includes grapes grown across the state, from Napa, Sonoma, Lake Country, Lodi and other regional vineyards that contribute to a balanced red wine with attractive ripe dark fruit, sweet spice and vanilla notes. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario and Quebec, $27.99 in British Columbia ($22.99 until March 2), various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $34.99 in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, $32.99 in Prince Edward Island, $33.93 in Newfoundland.
Mitchell Watervale Riesling 2022 (Australia), $21.95
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First produced in 1977, Watervale Riesling comes from Clare Valley in south Australia. This is a distinctively dry style of riesling; a shock to the system for fans of German or Canadian models that are generously fruity in nature. Expect a mix of lemon and lime zest with floral notes, with noticeable acidity, as part of a pure and restrained white wine that’s a terrific aperitif. Drink now to 2035. Available in Ontario.
Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba 2021 (Italy), $36.95
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The family-owned Pio Cesare makes this expressive wine with barbera grapes from vineyards in the Barolo, Barbaresco and Langhe regions of Piedmont. A portion of the wine is aged in smaller oak barrels to build texture and complexity in the finished wine. The flavour suggests a mix of ripe cherry, savoury and spice notes as part of its vivacious character. There’s structure and concentration to age, but it’s an appealing red to bring to the dinner table now. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $31 in Quebec (2022 vintage).
Prelius Vermentino 2022 (Italy), $23.95
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This is an enjoyably fruity and focused white made with organically grown vermentino grapes from Maremma on the Tuscan coast. A concentrated mix of lemon, peach and pineapple flavours carries through to a refreshing finish. There’s impressive balance and length, which makes this a satisfying wine to serve on its own or with a meal. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
San Felice Chianti Classico 2021 (Italy), $20.95
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This is a benchmark for traditional Chianti Classico, produced from mostly sangiovese grapes with some other regional varieties grown in vineyards near Siena. The flavours are a sweet and sour mix of cherry and berry fruit, which are pleasant, especially when enjoyed with a meal. The tannic structure and bright acidity make this a winning combination with an antipasti selection of cured meats, cheeses and preserved vegetables. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.99 in British Columbia ($22.99 until March 2), various prices in Alberta.
Christopher Waters